~~~SUPER~~~
I slowly beginn to think that you are professional bluetooth ugrader
How come you know so much about the circuit boards?

i guess…....... :twisted:

hey man!i am a male,“mandy"is my girlfriend`s name…and “chao” is me!!

[quote author=“silyb0y”]:lol: ~~~SUPER~~~
I slowly beginn to think that you are professional bluetooth ugrader
How come you know so much about the circuit boards?

Ahhh ok

Boahhh Chao. What a lucky number. 888 people have seen that site so far

Still waiting for my bluetooth stick :x

Hey MandyChao. I need to contact you for some help.

Could you please reply with email or msn/skype/yahoo screenname?
You can contact me as followed:

.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

CU

He guys.

I actually managed to install a bluetooth dongle in my TR.
And it works great!!! Its a class 2 dongle thats supposed to work within a distance of 10m (about 30 feet). However… the distance in wich I tested it clearly was more than 10m. SWELL

And just like Mr. Chao said in his first post, you can really switch it on and off using the WIFI switch.

So finally I want to thank MandyChao once more. GREAT!!!
BTW: I spent only 5 Euro (6-7 Dollars) on that dongle

Since I had some trouble on my way to Bluetooth heaven I like to give some infos on the installation. You can account it as a manual based upon MandyChaos guide So credits go to MandyChao!

—————————————————————————————————————————

First of all I removed the housing of the dongle so that I only had the dongle PCB and the USB plug left over. I carefully unsoldered that plug and connected the dongle PCB to an old USB cable that I had left over.

The pinout? The pinout for a USB cable including the color code can be found on the internet. There are acutally only four pins:

3,3Volt+, GND, VCC+ and VCC-

Why I connected it to a cable? Since I have destroyed one dongle due to exessive heat (soldering and unsoldering took to long - I was pretty tired that day - the dongle didnst stand the heat or the solder iron touched some SMD maybe) I this time wanted to connect the prepared dongle to the external USB port to check if its still working. Once done I cut of the USB cable and only left back some wire ready for soldering.

After that I started to solder the wires onto the four pins of the PCB inside the TR. I had some trouble to have them soldered properly. The pins on the TR PCB are so small that you have to work pretty carefully. I dont know much about PCBs but these pins are surely made for measurements. However… it finally worked out.

BTW: MandyChao marked THREE soldering points for each of the VCC.
So in case you get trouble with placing the two VCCs next to each other go take some other soldering point. I even soldered one of them right onto the socket thats made for the ALPS modulde :x

Once soldering was done I used my Multimeter to check for conduction and short circuit. I really had everything double checked. After that I reinstalled the whole palmrest unit and made a test run. Switching the TRon the led on the dongle PCB immediately started to flash. I started to grinn. Unfortunately WindowsXP kept telling me the the USB device has not been recognized. And it became worse. Whenever I switched on the dongle Windows told me that “one of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned”.

I was pretty schocked. In the device-manager Windows kept telling that the dongle was an “unknown device” so that I wasnt able to install a driver.

I spent last night thinking about that. In the beginning I thought that was a drivers problem. I of course had all USB Hubs uninstalled to have Windows reinstall them and so on…

One hour ago, after checking all connections AND pinouts for the 5th time, I decided to have the VCC+ and VCC- (the two data wires) changed positions (so the color code on my pictures are no longer right!!! green and white on dongle have been changed). I chose to change them on the dongle because here its way easier to solder!!!

Since the connections on the dongle were all right (pinouts were even printed on the dongle) I thought that Mr.Chaos pinout had been wrong (just mistaken VCC+ and VCC -) so that the pinout actually had to look like that:

After doing so I started the TR and this time I grinned even more!!!
WindowsXP immediately asked me for the driver of the USB device!!!
I didnt install any driver or Sony utilities. I just installed the brand new version of BlueSoleil that also delivered the right driver for the dongle. Ever since its been working great!

BTW: Just like MandyChao I installed the PCB right unter the palmrest besides TRs BT PCB

I used ordinary tape to have the dongle PCB isolated on one side and fixated it on the palmrest plastic using hot-clue. The led on the bluetooth dongle was so strong that I saw it flashing through the palmrest
This is why I finally unsoldered it.

I forgot to ask if theres somebody who has the complete pinout of the UGPZx bluetooth module or the socket on the daughterboard.

Since I had to remove the led on the bt dongle Id like to make the original blue led flash. I tried to measure out where the plus signal of the that led has its pin on the socket but I only found the GND. Its pretty tricky to measure leds.

congratulation….....
if your bt led not light,you can connect the 3.3v to led “+” pin,then led light… 8)

Yes thanks to you MandyChao!!! :D

However…  I thought about connecting the current leading pin from the dongle-led to the TR-led so that it would even blink…

However… I hoped to find some pinout so that I wouldnt have to solder around on the TR led. The TR leds are only attached to some kind of flat wire… it would melt when soldering right on it…

OK. I connected the plus signal from the dongle to the blue TR LED.
Light is too bright and its not blinking. That means that the dongle plus singal is always on and the blinking is realized by swichting the GND on and off ON THE DONGLE. So its a lot more to do in order to have it blinking. Ill see how I realize that.

Besides that I found out that two LED are dead (surely dead. multimeter checked! Checking for conduction the current from multimeter should be high enough to have the LED flash when right course -  they dont)

Its the harddisc led and the one RIGHT next to it. Can someone tell me what color they are and where I can get them?

Hello All,

I have been following the bluetooth upgrade post and did some research on my own.  I noticed that digikey sells a Taiyo Yuden bluetooth module (v2.0+EDR class 2).  The datasheet is located at:

http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Taiyo Yuden/Webdata/EYSFDCSWX.pdf

On page 37, it shows that the module has a 20pin male connector.  I was wondering if you know what the dimension of the socket on the TR is?  I would like to know if the module connector would mate with the TR socket.

Even though the pinout of the module maybe incompatible with the socket, I prefer to modify the bluetooth module instead of soldering wires directly onto the TR.

Thanks.
Josh

Sorry I didnt read this thread earlier. Ive finished the upgrade so my TR is no longer open. The only thing I can tell you is that the socket is hardly bigger than my thumb nail!!!

So I think that it could be even more difficult to change the pinout on that mentioned module itself than soldering the four wires onto that little PCB (its not the motherboard that were talkong about).

Besides that a BT dongle is only 5 Dollars or something. You should really consider soldering onto that PCB since your TR is no longer brand new.