I’ve been doing alot of looking for information regarding the hardware, i.e. bluetooth module used in models like the SRX99, but have found absolutely nothing. If anyone can tell me ANYTHING about the internal bluetooth hardware, i’d me much appreciative.

bumping… still curious

I have also tried to make a bluetooth upgrade to my parents SRX87,
and been thinking about how to do it for a while.

I got great help by snowwhite on this forum, and here it is how it is originally done, all information about the SRX7 is from him.

About SRX7’s bluetooth:

The bluetooth logo in the top left corner is hiding the bluetooth antenna in the magnesium chassi, also the bluetooth module is in the “screen” part of the computer.
Here is a very large (1mb) picture from the inside of a SRX7 with bluetooth:
 

Between the CPU and the cooler is a white connector, the grey cable from this connector goes through the right hinge nearby the yellow power plug.

There are a number of things that are “missing” in my SRX87,
compared to the SRX7:
* ALPS Bluetooth module
* Board that have antenna, and connector to the ALPS modul inside the screen
* Cable from the bluetoothboard to the main board
* Blue LED, and its driving components.
* Screen cover with whole in the magnesium chassie to let RF out.

As so much parts are missing, buying everything it too expensive and complicated

I went for the cheap and “easy” way, here is a quick/brief how-to.

Here is how I have done it so far (I havn’t completed it yet):
First I reverse engineered the (white) connector (connected to the grey ribbon cable), CN2603, and here is the pinout:
1 +5V
2 +5V
3 D- (USB)
4 D+(USB)
5 GND
6 GND
7 BT enable (logic line, HI(3.3V)=enabled)
8 Unknown, static lo (0V
9 Unknown, static hi while on (3.25V)
10 Unconnected

Any equpment can be connected to this “new” USB port, I successfully tried my mouse to this extra “internal” USB port.

The female part that fits the connactor is a JST part, art.nr: 10SR-3S
Datasheet:
 

I bought a normal bluetooth dongle, D-Link DBT-122, and took that apart:
 

I choosed that one because of it’s size, and that it could handle BT V1.2.
In my opinion the big difference between BT V1.1 and BT V1.2 is that BT V1.2 can avoid WLAN traffic if present. (if both parties have BT V1.2)

I also noticed at the picture on FCC’s website that it looked like it had a voltage regulator that could be used for power-off, unfortunantely that photo also showed that the unit had an PCB-antenna (just PCB tracks), typically low-cost, at the expense of range.

It works perfectly to just connect the DBT-122 to +5V, D-, D+ and GND in the connector, but as +5V is always present you must somehow turn the power off, othervise you will empty your battery.

Fortunantely it is possible as the regulator used on board the DBT-122 has an (unused) enable signal, that just need to be connected.
In the DBT-122 it is tied to +5V so the connection needs to be cut/disconnected in some way, either by lifting it’s “leg”, or by cutting a track.

If EN pin on the (similar/pin-compatible) regulator below is connected to pin 7 on the CN2603, the wireless off switch works as original
 

I use the same “Wireless Switch Setting Utility” as for my TR, and it works perfectly.

To get a nice blue light you have to place a blue LED (eg. Everlight EL19-21UBC), a resistor (150ohm) and FET transistor (any N-FET, SOT323) on the “botton-left” PCB inside the SRX, same PCB as the modular-telephone plug is mounted on.

I have desoldered the USB connector from the dongle and plan to place it in the ceiling inside the SRX87, next to the touchpad (on the right side of it, above the harddrive).

Everything is tiny with this mod, so and makeing a mistake shorting +5V into som 3V logic is probably very unhealthy for you SRX computer.

Use a stereo microscope while soldering, and double check your connections.

If anyone dare to follow my example I can make a more throgh how-to!

/Bushman

Thanks so much for taking the time to post this.  I also figured there were some unused USB headers onboard but I didn’t know the first thing about where I would find them.  This would be easilty doavle if I could get my hands on one of those plastic connectors.

If you could take some detailed pictures when/if you attempt this, i’d be grateful.

Here is some picture from the modification that I have finished.
The placement on top of the harddrive isn’t optimal, neither are the PCB antenna.

Range is about 2m shorter than the TR, but my goal is to use it in the 0.5-2m range so I don’t really bother. Maybee I connect a good antenna at a dedicaded space if my application needs it.

D-Link DBT-122 (FCC ID: KA2DBT122A1)
before modification:

As LED:s inside arn’t visible I removed the LED and tracks near the antenna.
This might save some power aswell as might distueb the antenna less.
I also removed the USB connector as it isn’t necessary.

I moved the decoupling capacitor and disconnected the “tied” EN (EN) signal:

Whole board:

In order to mechanically fixate the cables I used hot melt adhesive:
Notice that two conductors are soldered to the same joint (+5V & GND):

the EN signal is alone on the other side:

hot melt on the connector as strain relief:
(1mm/0.039” pitch connector)

To get a nice blue “BT-enabled” light, the PCB with telephone connector must be modified:

Q4599 should be a N-FET, SOT-323, but as I didn’t had had easy access to such a device I took a 2N7002, pinout is identical, but size mismatch.
R4599 (last digit is not shown on picture) mounted was 0402 130Ohm (gives 10mA @ 5V), 150Ohm would probably be fine aswell.
D4599 I mounted was a Everlight EL19-21UBC, but any blue 0603 diode will do.
All three mounted:

I placed the bluetooth PCB near the touchpad using ordinary adhesive tape:

When keyboard is removed the cabeling can be done nicely:

Mount the whole thing together, and enjoy the new blue light!

Everything works just fine, even the headset profile, and “Wireless Switch Setting Utility”.

I consider this as an fairly advanced hack, but anyone that have equipment for repairwork with SOT-323 and 0402 components could probably do it.
Most of the work is done with the help of a stereo microscope.

/Bushman

Awesome guide.  Thank you so much!

Hey, Lemme get this straight,  Its NOT possible to just get a bluetooth module from a bluetooth SRX and plant it in a nonbletooth SRX?? or is it too costly?

I have a Literally brand new srx87P collecting dust, and recently acquired a bluetooth model SRX with some other faults.  Cant i just take apart the screen on my srx87P and insert the working Bluetooth module, or will the BIOS pose a problem. I have the Recovery discs of the Bluetooth SRX laptop as well. How would i go about changing/fooling the Bios on my srx87P so that it recognizes the recovery discs when i run them after installing the Bluetooth module.

Any help will be appreciated. Thanks

KK!

[quote author=“leprikhan”]Hey, Lemme get this straight,  Its NOT possible to just get a bluetooth module from a bluetooth SRX and plant it in a nonbletooth SRX?? or is it too costly?!

Just too costy, it’s very possible however.
[quote author=“leprikhan”]
I have a Literally brand new srx87P collecting dust, and recently acquired a bluetooth model SRX with some other faults.  Cant i just take apart the screen on my srx87P and insert the working Bluetooth module, or will the BIOS pose a problem.

BIOS will not cause any problem.

I would suggest to switch complete screens (if possible).

You will need all PCB:s inside the screen, and also the plastic cover for the bluetooth antenna, aswell as the display magnesium “shell”.
You will also need to switch the PCB the has the telephone connector.

[quote author=“leprikhan”]
I have the Recovery discs of the Bluetooth SRX laptop as well. How would i go about changing/fooling the Bios on my srx87P so that it recognizes the recovery discs when i run them after installing the Bluetooth module.

Use widcomm or bluesoleil bluetooth stacks instead of the old limited sony.

/Bushman

You will need all PCB:s inside the screen, and also the plastic cover for the bluetooth antenna, aswell as the display magnesium “shell”.
You will also need to switch the PCB the has the telephone connector

Umm… “PCB”??? Parts concerning Bluetooth?  :?

I wouldnt know where to get the widcom or bluesoleil drivers.If anyone can post them, i will be greatful. Do i need to override the sony drivers or just plain delete them.

Does the cut out portion on the SRX bluetooth model laptop chasis serve a purpose or is it just to make the guy next to you jealous on the metro .

The Bluetooth SRX that i acquired needs an LCD backlight. The screen is NOT busted, Its just dark, If i position it right (under a lamp) i can still read whats on the screen, Nonetheless it needs to be repaired. The screens on these laptops are ridiculously priced. ony wants $799 and above just for the screen. Buying a working laptop off ebay is an option, but im not willing to shell out $400 to $500 bucks either. Is there a cheaper way to just change the backlight?

It’s possible but difficult to change the backlight.  I don’t know exactly what hardware you’d need.

You might want to consider the economic sense of doing this though.  I just dropped about $200 on upgrades and additions to my SRX77.  That isn’t really much money, but in retrospect it probably would have been better to just put that towards getting a TR series.  I’m looking on ebay right now.

Thanks Mr B! for the advice. Unfortnately ive take the Tr plunge a while back. Actually now that you metion it, im looking to sell my TR3AP. I hate listing things on ebay, they take too much time plus you get asked the most retarded questions. If youre interested in the machine, let me know what you are looking to spend. Maybe we can work something out. If you want pics, id have to email them to ya. Thanks.

.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

KK!

[quote author=“leprikhan”]

You will need all PCB:s inside the screen, and also the plastic cover for the bluetooth antenna, aswell as the display magnesium “shell”.
You will also need to switch the PCB the has the telephone connector

[quote author=“leprikhan”]
Umm… “PCB”??? Parts concerning Bluetooth?  :?

Sorry, PCB = Printed Circuit Board, a board with components.

[quote author=“leprikhan”]
I wouldnt know where to get the widcom or bluesoleil drivers.If anyone can post them, i will be greatful. Do i need to override the sony drivers or just plain delete them.

Use this tutorial:
 
Its almost identical, but the PID for the Bluetooth module is probably somewhat different, as it’s a little bit older
, othervise everything else should be identical

[quote author=“leprikhan”]
Does the cut out portion on the SRX bluetooth model laptop chasis serve a purpose or is it just to make the guy next to you jealous on the metro .

As the chassi is in metal (magnesium), it’s like a shielding box, the cutout make the radio tranmission much better.

[quote author=“leprikhan”]
The Bluetooth SRX that i acquired needs an LCD backlight. The screen is NOT busted, Its just dark,

A dark display ofen is caused by a broken “inverter”, it need a high voltage supply to work, and these transformers ofen fails, try to swap it between your two srx computers:
 
In the link above, I’m reffering to ref # 301.
I am 90% sure that this is the causing your backlight problem.

/Bushman