If you’re new to it you may want to stick with a WYSIWYG editor. The latest FrontPage 2003 software is actually pretty good. Another popular one is Dreamweaver which is also good and has built-in FTP and also allows you to see the HTML code it generates side by side.
In terms of a regular FTP client. I’m actually like this neat software called WebDrive . It’s not a traditional FTP program but rather it allows you to map FTP, WebDAV, etc. sites directly to a drive letter in your Windows Explorer. And you can pretty much do all of the basic explorer commands on that drive. So, you can drag and drop files, delete folders, create folders, and even see thumbnails like you would in explorer. And it has a special properties tag so you can change file permissions/attributes (i.e. CHMOD).